Culture, Sports, Food

Bywel’s is a local hotspot with live music. Music here was a fusion between Ghanaian traditional and jazz music providing for a really interesting mix. The Ghanaians seem to devote a lot of time to their music as well. One group here practices for eight hours a day. I guess it isn’t too much of a surprise that they are so talented. Their natural rhythm is also impressive. Even children seem to be able play music with relative ease. It was a bittersweet night as my roommate left. It is weird how quickly one becomes friends in part because of the shear number of new experiences that forge people together. We can relate to the others ignorance! Someone once told me that you like those who are like yourself. Rarely do I make an effort to know people if I don’t like them. Therefore finding common ground is essential if I am to really find out about this culture.

            During a walk down the beach in Cape Coast we found a group of three Ghanaians children playing soccer. We played with them for more then two hours. The three of our group vs. the three Ghanaians. Even though they were half our size and half our age they still managed to show us a thing or two. (That’s about as much as I can say without further damage to my ego) It was a lot of fun and we were all good friends by the end of it. This was one of the best parts of my time so far. These kids wanted nothing more than to play soccer and make friends with new people. Soccer was something that we shared in common, and was a base through which we got to know each other.

Something else that I saw through this is how much these kids could do with so little. The pure joy that kids get out of playing soccer was great to see. Even children back home still get a thrill out of playing sports. But they become bored with it. They are so overloaded with video games, movies, and other technology. They have become so accustom to it that they feel like they deserve it. For that matter we all believe we deserve more in life, no matter what we already have. This can have merit, as we push towards a better future. But at some point there must be a balance between bettering one’s self and satisfaction in what we have. I cannot believe that these two things are incompatible. I think in our society satisfaction is viewed as weakness.

 

The food: There are a large variety of traditional foods in Ghana. Most often used are yams, cassava, and plantains. Yams are often used in place of potatoes. Cassava is like a small yam, like a small yam, taste is similar to turnip. Plantains are like a hybrid between bananas and sweet potato. One can purchase them both raw and ripe. The raw plantains are used for plantain chips (like potato chips), fufu, and banku (described later). The ripe plantains are fried and have a more banana like taste.

         mashing Cassava for Fufu

   We went to a cooking class in Cape Coast. A friendly Ghanaian lady and her brother ran the workshop. It was another view of their society, plus we got to eat it. It shed a bit of light on why restaurants take up to two hours to bring dinner as well.

Fufu is a mixture of plantain and cassava. Both the plantain and the cassava are pummeled seperately with a big stick until they form a paste. They are then mixed together to become Fufu. It does not have much of a taste, which is why it is often eaten with soup and fish. It reminds me of raw dough. Banku is similar though with a slightly different taste and less firm. You can't chew Banku, something that takes a bit of getting used to. Red Red is basically Black Eyed Peas, spices, garlic, and onions. It's my favorite Ghanaian dish. Light soup has vegatables, chicken, palm oil. Groundnut soup is the same as Light soup but with peanut butter (groundnut paste) added. Two favorite ingredients here are garlic and ginger. They lack salt and it is something I find myself craving.

From top Palava Sauce, yams, Light Soup, Red Red, Fried Plantain, Groundnut Soup

Inauguration

The inauguration of Atta Mills did not pass without incident. My group went as invited guests to the ceremony. Unfortunately the crowds were thick and uncontained. As we tried to find our way to the ceremony we were literally pushed into a mob of people. They were trying to pick-pocket on every side. In this case they did not even have to hide their actions. They simply grabbed at us because they knew we couldn’t get out. We took refuge behind a vendors stall teetering on the brink of an open sewer. Luckily a police officer came after a few minutes and escorted us to where we were supposed to go. We were seated and everything seemed to be going as planned. Even though we weren’t in the best viewing, after being in that mob, we all counted our blessings (and our money).

            After about half an hour the new president came to be inaugurated. The crowd went wild at the sight of him. After ten minutes of the ceremony the weak barriers could not hold them back and a hoard of supporters ran into the main arena. Another example of Ghanaian exuberance. I am happy that this exuberant crowd didn’t change into an angry mob, something which was all too probable.  

First Travels

The voodoo village, Togoville, was interesting. To see a religion founded at the same time as their culture is a great learning opportunity. For example the voodoo statues put certain things at the forefront. The symbol for Togoville was the hawk. According to legend the hawk led their ancestors out of a large maze. This religious development shows that they were moving into a more developed infrastructure. The woman guardian of the village was larger than her male counterpart, indicating her importance to the community. This community mentality still runs strong today. Even Accra, the capital of Ghana, is broken up into many smaller communities that are loyal to the others. The bond is almost palpable in the streets when you see their interaction. After only two weeks in my neighborhood, they have already begun to accept me. (the lady on the street gives me two omelette sandwiches for the price of one) There is an identifiable strength in each community. There are trees that protect the village, recognizing natures importance to health. Their main religious ceremony shows that hospitality must always be given.

On the weekend I traveled to Mampong with some others from my placement. This was a great opportunity to see the natural beauty of Ghana. Here you could feel how much purer the air was. The landscape was beautiful everywhere around us. It is in the region where I will be placed for my orphanage work, Akuapem Hills.

We visited a cocoa plantation in Mampong. Ghana is the second largest produer of cocoa. The guide took us through the first plantation in Ghana, showing us how cocoa is produced. As with the voodoo village it was interesting to see this history. I find that here their history is not just in the past but it is a part of the culture, especially in rural area. In Western society we seem to look only to the future and forget about our past. Or we smooth things over, mentioning only the things we like about what we’ve done. This also shows me that Ghana has more dimensions then just the part that I am helping. There is more then meets the eye. It is exciting to know that I have only scratched the surface of what the country has to offer. The pricing for the Botanical Gardens was interesting. For locals it was about tenth of the price. This encourages the locals to come and enjoy their site. It makes the site part of the community rather then just a tourist attraction. There were family reunions and children playing. In Canada I find that people rarely go to their own heritage sites and attractions simple because it is too expensive.

This weekend I went to a soccer game in Accra. Wow. I was more interested to see the fans then the game itself. - the loud side. Even though the stadium wasn’t filled they still made their opinions known J It was good to see their fun side.

On Sunday I went to a soccer game in Accra. This showed me another part of Ghanaians- the loud side. Even though the stadium wasn’t filled they still made their opinions known J It was good to see their fun side.

Enjoying every minute of it.

Passion

This is just one example of how passionate Ghanaians are about democracy and their role within in it. The only comparison is hockey fans after a winning games. Except for this passion is behind the government. It is a little aweing. Democracy new, with tyrany still fresh in the minds of some. This makes it all the more precious to them.

First Impressions

My first impressions of Ghana 

People here are also much more friendly in general. They smile and wave in the streets and greet you in passing. Though it can be difficult separating those who are friendly and those who want money.  A scenario not foreign to Western society! Though we are a lot more subtle about it. I now have a challenge in balancing being amiable and sensible. 

The children here are even more candid than those in North America. Calling out to you with a large smile "Abruni" which means white person. At which I respond in Twi "Abibini"- black person, and watch as they laugh at a Westener speaking their native language...badly! They haven't been taught the mantra of "do not talk to strangers" and fear seems absent in their open attitude to visitors. Seeing this encourages me to be the same. 

People are more calm and laid back here. They seem to take life's challenges as they come to them. Not responding to the stress of life as a North American would, with worry and high blood pressure. But through trust. Trust that things will work themselves out with time. They are also much more passionate. When they are happy, they are very happy and when they argue...they are very liberal! They do not hold back emotions or grudges. Things which I think make life more stressful for those in our society. This is my outsiders opinion and I hope to learn more as I continue to absorb the culture. 

 

The Ghanaians have a total different outlook on politics when compared with Western society. Democracy is totally fresh, new, and exiting to the people here. The latest election results were announced on Saturday. There was unconcealed passion in the faces of the young and the old. People ran down the streets chanting and singing. Not only because they loved the candidate, but because they had a part in creating it. They believe in the power of democracy to help them become stronger. Very dissimilar to the jaded North American view. I would argue that the government can change a country’s situation only if it is given allowance by its people. If people have faith in their leader and follow, the country will become stronger together. I guess this is simple in theory. But in Canada with less then 45% of the population voting and fewer that are really passionate, it seems that this goal is intangible. We need someone who can inspire people, get them interested in their democracy again, someone that they can believe in. 

Saying this the government is far from perfect. One of my friends past through a police checkpoint in rural Ghana. They searched his things and one of the officers removed his camera. When my friend asked for his camera back the officer refused asking for his "Christmas present". So he gave him 10 cedi and got his camera back. Unfortunately this seems not to be an exception to the rule, but rather the standard. The police get paid so little they are very susceptible to temptation and bribery. 

I am enjoying Ghana and the lessons it offers. The culture shock is awesome, and I look forward to the coming weeks. 

Goals

Some of my goals for Ghana.

Growing up in a developed country within a middle-class family I have never experienced what it is to want for the “basic” human needs. These things have been given to me. The lottery of birth automatically gave me a myriad of opportunities. Nothing bars my way. I would like to gain an appreciation of this fact.

Through Human Rights advocacy

As an observer I will be able to see the barriers and problems that face Ghanians in their day-to-day lives. This month will enable me to see the big picture. I will be able to learn about a diverse range of difficulties such as human trafficking, women’s rights, HIV/AIDS, poverty, poor sanitation, among others.

The legal system in Ghana is based on the British system. Therefore I will be able to explore law as a future career after my undergraduate degree.

I will be able to see the results of the work that I am doing and assess the effect on the overall health of the country. Does the legal system truly make an impact with the people in the streets or are the things the system endeavors to achieve simply blanket band-aid fixes that truly do nothing for their long-term success?

Through my orphanage work

See the actual affects of poverty, human trafficking, HIV/Aids, poverty and poor sanitation.

By seeing the effects of my teaching and care during the two months, I will be able to see how much is accomplished by volunteering at a grass roots level. This will then be compared to my legal work in the hopes of determining the best method to help the people of Ghana.

Being in a developing country

Experience life without the comforts of the industrialized world. Thereby gaining an appreciation for what I have. I too often take for granted the things I have. The money I spend is often under-utilized and my purchases, flippant. I want to understand the power of money so as to utilize the funds I have.  

I hope to recognize that the world is in fact connected. One cannot simply ignore a problem in the developing world. It is not as easy as turning off the TV when the world vision commercial comes on. 

I want to visit different regions of the country. I want to explore the region and be able to view different sites of cultural significance. This will also serve in my appreciation of the global society we live in. And the importance of every country on every continent.